Replacing the Roof on a Triple-Decker

What's up there

Most triple-deckers have a low-slope main roof that can't be seen from the street, often behind a cornice or parapet. Add a porch roof at the top of the stacked porches, bay windows with their own small roofs, one or more chimneys, and usually a roof hatch. Each one is a detail the contractor has to plan for.

Choosing a membrane

EPDM (rubber), TPO and modified bitumen are the common choices. TPO's light color reflects summer sun; EPDM is simple to detail on small roofs; modified bitumen is often used on porch roofs. A replacement is also a chance to add rigid insulation board on top of the deck, which can reduce heat loss through the top-floor ceiling. See low-slope roofing options.

Drainage and gutters

Low-slope roofs on triple-deckers usually pitch toward the front or back, draining through scuppers into gutters and downspouts. Clogged outlets cause ponding and ice in winter, so ask how drainage will be handled and whether tapered insulation can improve it.

Access, safety and neighbors

Houses close together and narrow driveways make staging harder. Ask how materials will be hoisted, where the dumpster will sit, and whether the crew needs access over a neighbor's property; that takes the neighbor's permission. Parking for the crew matters on busy streets.

Owner-occupied rules

Massachusetts Home Improvement Contractor registration applies to contractors working on owner-occupied homes of one to four units, which includes a triple-decker where the owner lives in one of the apartments. Either way, ask for the Construction Supervisor License and proof of insurance.

Coordinating with tenants

Give tenants notice of the schedule, expected noise, and any limits on porch use or parking. Ask the contractor for a start time and a daily finish time so everyone can plan around the work.